Modernisme Beyond Gaudí
The other masters who built modernista Barcelona
Gaudí gets the queues, but he was one of three major figures in Catalan modernisme and arguably not the most influential in his own lifetime. Domènech i Montaner and Puig i Cadafalch built much of what makes Eixample look the way it does.
This route is the antidote to the Gaudí crush: a concert hall that is one of the most extravagant interiors in Europe, a hospital complex that is effectively a small city of pavilions, and two townhouses. Same movement, a fraction of the crowd.
Your route
Palau de la Música Catalana
Sant Pere
Carrer del Palau de la Música, 4-6
Guided tours daily 10:00–15:30 (times vary)
Local tip: Domènech i Montaner's stained-glass concert hall — a UNESCO site. Take the guided tour, or better, catch a concert.
Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau
El Guinardó
Carrer de Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167
10:00–18:30 (to 14:00 winter Sundays)
Local tip: The former hospital is the largest art-nouveau site in the world. Wander the pavilions and underground tunnels.
Casa Amatller
Eixample
Passeig de Gràcia, 41
10:00–19:00 (guided visits)
Local tip: Puig i Cadafalch's stepped-gable house sits right beside Casa Batlló on the 'Block of Discord'. The ground-floor chocolate shop is a treat.
Casa de les Punxes
Eixample
Avinguda Diagonal, 420
Exterior always visible; interior visits vary
Local tip: The "House of Spikes" — a fairytale of six pointed towers. Great to admire from the street even if you skip the interior.
Enhance this experience
Palau de la Música Entry Ticket
Timed entry to Domènech i Montaner’s modernista concert hall.
We may earn a commission if you book through this link. It costs you nothing extra.
Before you go
How is modernisme different from art nouveau?
It is the Catalan branch of the same European moment, but with a nationalist streak — heavy use of local craft traditions, brickwork, ceramic and wrought iron, and Catalan symbolism worked into the decoration.
Is Palau de la Música worth a guided tour?
Yes. The main hall is only accessible on a tour or with a concert ticket, and the stained-glass skylight is the single most impressive interior in the city after the Sagrada Família. A concert is the better option if the timing works.
Is Sant Pau far from the other stops?
It sits at the top of the diagonal avenue from the Sagrada Família, about a ten-minute walk. Easy to combine, and far quieter than anything else in that part of the city.
You might also like
Want something more personal?
Answer 5 quick questions and get a plan tailored to your mood, budget and time.
Create Your Own Plan